A Tale of Two Islands

The islands of Manhattan and Pulau Rhun* could hardly be more different.

Rhun, in the Banda Sea in Indonesia, has no cars or roads and only about 20 motorbikes. Most people get around by walking along its paved footpaths or up steep stairways, often toting plastic jugs of water from the numerous village wells.

Manhattan, meanwhile, is the prototypical asphalt jungle. It’s the most densely populated of New York City’s five boroughs, and nearly a million cars visit its central business district daily. Many consider it the financial and cultural capital of the world.

Back in 1667, however, things were very different. Through the Treaty of Breda, the Netherlands swapped Manhattan, then a swampy colony known as New Amsterdam, with Great Britain for the tiny island of Rhun, which the two nations had been battling over to gain control of a highly coveted resource: nutmeg.

In 1667, the tiny island of Pulau Rhun* was so coveted that the Dutch traded Manhattan for it. Some 350 years later, life in the two places couldn’t be more different.

The islands of Manhattan and Pulau Rhun are two completely different places.

Rhun is in the Banda Sea in Indonesia. The island has no cars or roads. In fact, there are only about 20 motorbikes. Most people get around by walking along its paved footpaths or up steep stairways. Water must be carried in plastic jugs from the numerous village wells.

Manhattan, meanwhile, is the opposite. It’s the most densely populated of New York City’s five boroughs. Nearly a million cars visit its central business district daily. Many consider it the financial and cultural capital of the world.

Back in 1667, however, things were very different. The Netherlands and Great Britan were fighting over the tiny island of Rhun because of a highly sought-after resource: nutmeg. The countries settled the dispute with the Treaty of Beda. The Netherlands traded the swampy colony of New Amsterdam (later known as Manhattan) to Great Britain for the island of Rhun.

That might seem incredible today, but spices were hugely valued at the time. Not only were they prized as seasonings, but also for medicinal, religious, and ritual uses. And they mostly grew in certain tropical areas in the East, which meant the nations that controlled those areas could get rich off the spice trade. The European desire for nutmeg, cloves, pepper, and other spices launched fleets of ships, setting off a wave of global exploration, colonization, exploitation, and even genocide.

With its forest of nutmeg, Rhun once boasted one of the world’s most valuable patches of real estate. It’s one of 11 small isles that make up the Banda Islands, formerly the only place where nutmeg grew. To the north lie the larger Maluku Islands, famous for cloves. Collectively, the two island groups were known to Europeans as the Spice Islands.

It might seem incredible today, but spices were hugely valued at the time. They were used not only as seasonings but also for medicinal, religious, and ritual uses. They grew mostly in certain tropical areas in the East. This meant the nations that controlled those areas could get rich off the spice trade. The European desire for nutmeg, cloves, pepper, and other spices launched fleets of ships. It set off a wave of global exploration, colonization, exploitation, and even genocide.

With its forest of nutmeg, Rhun was once one of the world’s most valuable patches of real estate. It’s one of 11 small isles that make up the Banda Islands, formerly the only place where nutmeg grew. To the north lie the larger Maluku Islands, famous for cloves. Collectively, the two island groups were known to Europeans as the Spice Islands.

Experts say Rhun’s role in world history is far larger than its size of just 2 miles long and a half-mile wide would suggest: The British first reached the island in 1603, making it one of their earliest colonies. In the words of historian John Keay, Rhun is “the seed from which grew the most extensive empire the world has ever seen.”

Rhun islanders swore allegiance to the British in an unsuccessful attempt to secure protection against the Dutch, who controlled the other Banda Islands and eventually Rhun as well. The Dutch committed genocide by killing or enslaving 90 percent of the Bandanese people, according to historians.

Experts say Rhun’s role in world history is far larger than its size of just 2 miles long and a half-mile wide. The British first reached the island in 1603 and made it one of their earliest colonies. In the words of historian John Keay, Rhun is “the seed from which grew the most extensive empire the world has ever seen.”

Rhun islanders swore allegiance to the British in an unsuccessful attempt to gain protection from the Dutch, who controlled the other Banda Islands and eventually Rhun as well. The Dutch committed genocide by killing or enslaving 90 percent of the Bandanese people, according to historians.

Jim McMahon

Reaching Rhun by boat 400 years ago was a daunting journey. And it’s still not easy getting to this spot 1,600 miles east of Indonesia’s former capital, Jakarta. Most travelers take a crowded, cockroach-infested ferry from the Maluku Islands to the main port on the island of Banda Neira. From there, they go by motorboat to Rhun, a trip that can take hours in rough seas.

Despite this isolation, many on Rhun are at least vaguely aware of the island’s connection with Manhattan, and although they know there are stark differences, they think their home compares favorably.

Reaching Rhun by boat 400 years ago was a difficult journey. Today it is still not easy getting to Rhun. It is 1,600 miles east of Indonesia’s former capital, Jakarta. Most travelers take a crowded, cockroach-infested ferry from the Maluku Islands to the main port on the island of Banda Neira. From there, they go by motorboat to Rhun, a trip that can take hours in rough seas.

Despite this isolation, many on Rhun are at least vaguely aware of the island’s connection with Manhattan. They know there are major differences, but they think their home compares favorably.

“Manhattan can have all the skyscrapers, but I am proud to come from Rhun because we have nature—the sea and the forest,” says Burhan Lohor, a deputy village chief on the island who also farms nutmeg, teaches at the Islamic school, and runs a guesthouse.

The junior high school, the island’s highest level of education, sits at the top of the village. Most students know that nutmeg was once prized and have heard of the treaty that exchanged Rhun for Manhattan. When a visitor showed them a photo of the Manhattan skyline, they crowded around for a closer look. Arzal Yadi, 14, was unimpressed.

“It looks like a very barren place,” he said, “because it has so many buildings.”

“Manhattan can have all the skyscrapers, but I am proud to come from Rhun because we have nature—the sea and the forest,” says Burhan Lohor, a deputy village chief on the island who also farms nutmeg, teaches at the Islamic school, and runs a guesthouse.

The junior high school, the island’s highest level of education, sits at the top of the village. Most students know that nutmeg was once prized and have heard of the treaty that exchanged Rhun for Manhattan. When a visitor showed them a photo of the Manhattan skyline, they crowded around for a closer look. Arzal Yadi, 14, was unimpressed.

“It looks like a very barren place,” he said, “because it has so many buildings.”

Many Indonesians have benefited from a push by President Joko Widodo to improve infrastructure and bind the nation of 17,500 islands more closely together, but such progress hasn’t reached Rhun.

Its 2,000 people live in a single village by the only bay. The steamy island has no air-conditioning, and electricity flows only at night. Cellphone service recently arrived, but connections are spotty. With no running water, students are assigned to bring jugs of well water to school for flushing toilets and washing.

Many Indonesians have benefited from a push by President Joko Widodo to improve infrastructure and bind the nation of 17,500 islands more closely together. But the progress hasn’t reached Rhun.

There is a single village by the only bay, where the 2,000 residents live. There is no air-conditioning, and electricity flows only at night. Cellphone service recently arrived, but connections are spotty. There is no running water. Students are assigned to bring jugs of well water to school for flushing toilets and washing.

Nutmeg is still prevalent on the island; along with tuna, it’s a mainstay of the local economy, although it’s also grown in many other places now.

Herman Abdullah, whose family has farmed nutmeg for generations, hiked up the hill above the village one recent day to harvest the fruit. After he chose a tree, his friend knocked hundreds of nutmegs to the ground with a long pole. For a time, it seemed to be raining nutmeg.

Sitting in the shade, the two men sliced the fruit open. Then, loading the harvest into a basket on his back, Herman headed back down the hill.

Nutmeg is still dominant on the island and, along with tuna, it is the main source of income for the local economy. Nutmeg is also now grown in many other places.

Herman Abdullah’s family has farmed nutmeg for generations. Recently he and a friend hiked up the hill above the village to harvest the fruit. After he chose a tree, his friend knocked hundreds of nutmegs to the ground with a long pole. It looked like it was raining nutmeg.

Next the two men sat in the shade and sliced the fruit open. Then Herman loaded the harvest into a basket on his back and headed back down the hill.